So where we last left off, we had just finished exploring the majority of Ercolano (Herculaneum), though not as much as I think some of us would have wishes. As we were leaving, we noticed an entire lower level (complete with what appeared to be human bones of some kind--casts of those petrified by lava??) that we had completely missed. If I ever get a chance to go back, I'll be making a beeline for that. BUT! Due to time, it was off to Pompeii we rushed, in the taxi cab that had driven us to the top of Mount Vesuvius and whose shrewd driver had noticed our concern for time and struck a deal with us.
He dropped us off right in front of the entrance and we climbed the long winding path to the entrance. Once glance at Richie's map of the place told me it was MUCH bigger than Ercolano, but after a few minutes of making our way around I realised that Ercolano was definitely my favourite by far and away, for two reasons: 1) the individual ruins of Pompeii are largely roped off/gated from visitors, which allows you to peek in but not explore in the interactive manner we so enjoyed in Ercolano; and 2) there is precious little of the artwork/mosaics/frescos/columns/marblework left to marvel at.
Pompeii, as noted in an earlier entry, is much larger than Ercolano--a true metropolis. It seemed fairly well organized, with large intersecting city streets, an amphitheater, and varying class levels of houses, slaves, and houses of worship.
Some of the gang outside the entrance (through that arch behind us.)
An example of how the majority of the ruins are gated off--and giving a shout out to my GoFundMe sponsors Caylee & the Brindley family!
Well preserved, but again, roped off to exploration. I would have liked to go meandering around here.
A panorama of the Forum of Pompeii--traditionally, forums were the "public square" lined with judicial buildings, law enforcement, offices, temples, and market stalls. Much like the Roman Forum here in Rome it's largely in ruins so you have to rely heavily on your imagination to see what would have been.
The first and really only interesting bit of tile work we found in Pompeii. (We've had a lot of rain recently, conveniently making the fountains much more realistic!)
Three of the bellas (from left to right, me, Marshmallow, and Scraps), standing atop what would have functioned as a crosswalk--since there was often waste mucking up the deep streets. The two grooves in the middle are so that the chariot wheels could get through.
It is SO much fun having willing models that will allow me to direct them into super rad pics like this one: Abbey Road, a la Pompeii. (From left to right: Marshmallow, Richie Rich, Scraps, and Jordy.)
Some of our tour was enriched by the free 19 minute Rick Steves audio tour of Pompeii, downloaded through his Audio Europe app the night before.
It was right around this time that the gray skies finally overcame us...and we got HAILED ON in Pompeii. Totally random and totally cool cold.
Inside that case is a plaster cast of a dog, caught in the lava flow. You can see the body painfully twisted into a yelping, escaping position. I found it quite strange that these famous plaster casts were stored in a seemingly haphazard way, under a corrugated overhang and behind a chain link fence just off to the side of the forum.
And here is the famous, classic cast that everyone recognizes from Pompeii--a man, crouched down and shielding his face from the oncoming volcanic ash. When the lava came down, it oozed over these dead bodies (who fell where they were at the primary pyroclastic blast) perfectly preserving them. In the intervening years before discovery, the bodies and bones disintegrated into nothing. When the archeologists found them, they poured plaster into the moulds left behind--and this is what they wound up with.
On our way out, heading back to Naples to catch the train home!
As many carbs as we eat on the daily, all the walking offsets at least some of it--nearly 10 miles in a day after all was said and done.
We hopped on the train back to Naples, and from there had a quick last dinner before departing for Napoli Centrale to head back to Rome. It was two incredibly long days, but so worth it. My final impression of Naples is that it really is a dirty, messy city. The locals there don't seem to care very much about their city. BUT, the food is absolutely out of this world, even better than what people said it would be. As for the "danger" aspect I was so frequently warned about, I didn't feel it. I didn't feel any more at-risk in Naples than I do in Rome, which isn't much. Perhaps this is because we travelled in a large group, or we were more prepared/safe--or maybe the city just isn't as dangerous as it used to be. There was *one* moment on the train from Naples to Ercolano where a man was standing entirely too close to us and giving off a decidedly predatory energy as he slowly scoped us all out, head to toe, one by one (clearly looking for loose purses, iPhones foolishly stashed in easy-to-pick back pockets, etc.). It made me nervous and several of the others picked up on it as well. Fortunately, Kansas is not easily intimidated by such things and levelled unwavering eye contact with the man consistently, making clear that his advances were NOT going unnoticed. He got off at the next stop.
Up Next: a condensed how-to guide for travelling to Naples from Rome, for future study abroad students. Until then, ciao.
Disclaimer: Please note that all photos are mine, and are not to be used for any purpose, commercial or otherwise, without my express written consent.
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